Monday, July 28, 2008
A Beach and a Bullfight, you can`t get more Spanish than that!
Let`s step back to Friday night, where the fun began!
I was a bit stumped. Sure, it was Friday- end of the weekend, my final Friday in Granada.. but what to do? See, I`ve been doing so much here in Granada, that this entire week I`ve taken out my map, looked it over... and to my surprise, there`s nowhere in Granada I haven`t been. From the bus station to the graveyard, to the risque side of town to the Parque de Ciencias, there isn`t one place that my foot hasn`t set at least once.. or twice.. or even multiple times. Aye Caramba!
But questioning was soon answered, as my cellphone cheerfully rang in my backpack. It was Brendan, and it was Brendan`s birthday that day! He called to let me know his parents had given him money for his birthday, and he wanted to take us Abroadco kids out for dinner and a Flamenco show!
Well, it doesn`t get much better than that on a Friday night in Spain!
The calling time was 9:15 PM at Correos, and luckily enough, a bit of shopping around made the time fly by. I quickly texted home to say I wouldn`t be needing dinner, and walking down the busy street, (Friday night=everyone goes out) I walked up and waited by Correos, our ever continuing meeting spot. Brendan soon came as well as Evelyn, and the three of us headed down near the Cathedral, at a nearby restaurant.
The show started at 9:30, and we were just on time to get a last minute spot, (Brendan had made a reservation, but I`m guessing in Spain they`re not as stuck on spots as they are in the US) We still had a fairly good area, and we all shrugged all shoulders- none of our legs were broken, so if we wanted to, we could simply walk up and watch.
We all ordered our drinks and our dinners, and waited for the show to begin. It was especially nice for Evelyn, since she hadn`t seen Flamenco yet! Our dinner was rather fast, I getting delicious chicken with some kind of French cheese, and the other two ordered themselves lamb.
But we had just began putting down our forks, when a group consisting of a Flamenco dancer, and three other singers sat down. They began to play the guitar, one of the men singing, as everyone else kept in rhythm with the clapping of their hands. It was a bit of a while before the dancing ensued, but when she rose to the occasion, the flamenco dancer did with with much passion. I`m no judge on Flamenco, but whether she had duende or not didn`t matter- her face was joyful as she danced, so I`m guessing she had fun- and it was definately reflected in her rapid movements!
We enjoyed our time at the restaurant, watching the flamenco and getting some exquisite food. But the clock flew by, and by 11 PM, we were out on the street, walking around and chatting after having much fun at the show. We wanted to stop for a quick tapas, not wanting the fun night to end, and try a delicious fried potato rolls with drinks. The bar we stopped at was packed full of people, Brendan even running into one of his intercambios! Eveyln satisfied her ice cream craving at the nearby heladeria, and we all toasted to Brendan`s 20th birthday. Qùe divertido!
However, a couple of yawns from me and Evelyn later, the three of us decide to retire for the night, wanting to get up the next day for our planned Abroadco excursion. So I headed home, after having a fun birthday night with my Abroadco buddies!
Saturday morning I woke relatively early, (I`m really used to waking up at 7:15 AM! Augh!) and ventured out for some quick breakfast. It was weird being home on a weekend, since the past couple of weeks, I`ve usually been gone the whole time! My host mom gave me some sandwhiches and fruit to eat at the beach, and I changed into my bathing suit and new dress, sneaker`d up, (My sandals broke early on- and I`ve been too cheap to buy a new pair.) and set out for the day!
10:15 AM was go time at Correos, and Inma was suprised at my appearance. I had mentioned that I might not show to the beach, (at the time the trip was going to be to Nerja, which I had already done, and wanted to take the opportunity to go off and see another place) but after some thinking over, and wanting to spend my last weekend close to Granada, I changed my mind. (And we went to Salobreña, which is a bit closer than Nerja!)
She was happy to see me all the same, and Brendan and Evelyn soon showed as well, and Inma lead us off from Correos to meet up with Jaime. We found Jaime a ways off in his car, and we all piled in, and headed off to the beachy town of Salobreña- hurrah!
We all discussed about our recent doing abouts the past couple of weeks, and towards the end of the trip had me simply staring out the window. Why so? Well, I`m not sure if it`s the winding roads, or just the difference in the air- whatever it is, every time I`ve spent long periods of time in a car, (car, not bus, thankfully!) I`ve gotten a bit car sick. Which is really odd, since unless I`m trying to read in a car in the US, that hasn`t happened! But all the same, I was extremely glad we were soon out of the car, because I wasn`t sure how many more turns my stomach could handle!
Soon enough we were out of the car in Salobreña, and Jaime and Inma then decided to take us up to the old Moorish Castle that loomed up beyond the entire city. We had to walk a good ways uphill in the blistering heat to get there, (Thanks for the waterbottle, mom!) but soon the castle`s entrance peeked into our vision:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5136.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5135.jpg
(looking back down)
We entered into the old castle, the rocks worn down, but still intact after all these years. Plants had been recently added onto this old castle, and gave a gorgeous look into perhaps what it may have looked like long ago. The five of us explored up and all over the castle, ducking into hallways, looking over the sea, and taking some fantastic photos of oursevles as the ocean breeze whistled by:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5139.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5142.jpg
Mom: The shoes have gotta go!
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5143.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5145.jpg
THE SQUARE TABLE OF SPAIN.. 2ND COUSIN TO THE ROUND TABLE!
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5147.jpg
(no idea on that one!)
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5150.jpg
(as always, more on photobuckkkkkeeeeeeeeet!)
The castle was a bit hot, despite being close to the sea, so we all had fun taking turns with my ever present fan! I`m definately going to have to bring a fad-fan back to the States, because I`m so used to using it all the time, that the habit will be nearly impossible to the break!
The castle trip was definately a lot of fun, and after touring around to our liking, we made our way down the hill to stop at a nearby museum. The museo had lots of old artifacts on display, such as pottery, trinkets, tools, and other things found around Salobreña of historical value:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5151.jpg
Upstairs was a cute little gift shop, and I all but cursed myself for not bringing my wallet- however, most of the things there I would probably have trouble bringing home, so all`s well on that! Inma and Evelyn bought themselves cute little crafts made by the artesians, and me and the guys simply browsed around, looking at all the beautiful crafts of art.
After touring the crafts store and a nearby pottery store as well, it was well time for some lunch and some beaching! We made our way down through the white colored town:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5152.jpg
hopped into the car, drove to the beach, and soon were settled at a beachside restaurant:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5153.jpg
We had all sorts of different plates, ranging from fish to salads, to calamari to pork pieces in ham. But strangely, my favorite dish came from one of my favorite sea creatures.. shark! Apparently, there`s a small shark that lives off the coast of Spain, which is often caught and made into dishes. It tasted just like chicken, and we all dove into the dish with a lot of gusto! Yummy shark.. who would have thought!
Our appetites sated, Jaime and Inma then took us for a quick stop for ice cream, (yuuuuum!) and then had to going to do some end of the month paper work- giving us Abroadco students 3 hours of free time to go and enjoy the beautiful beach of Salobreña:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5154.jpg
We lathered ourselves up and hit the waves.. ducking from the powerful surge, and enjoying the cool water as the hot sun shone high up in the sky. Most of our free time was spent enjoying the water, only getting out in the last hour to try a bit of tanning. However, despite my lathering from earlier, I defiantely got some lobster red-skin from the experience.. and I knew it was interesting when Jaime and Inma gaped at my new fleshy tone! I promised them that I hadn`t forgotten to put on my `screen, and they ushered me over to the shade. I guess that Wyoming`s made me sensitive to sun now! Yikes!
But the day flew by, and we were back in the car, headed the way home to Granada. I opted to try dozing for a bit, as my stomach was acting up once again, and it definately helped- when my name was mentioned my eyes flew open, and the city of Granada was in my vision once more. Jaime dropped us off relatively close to my home stay, and I was definately in the mind to take a nap. We all bid each other farewell after a fun day, and Jaime and Inma wished me well for my Sunday bullfight!
I walked the short distance home, and slunk into my room for a deserved nap- only after taking a quick shower to soothe my burned skin. Dinner was a mere 2 hours later, where my host mom took one look at my skin, and ushered off- and within seconds, was gently rubbing aloe into my shoulder. She`s so nice!! And the aloe definately helped the soreness!
I was still exhausted from the day and the sunburn, so I planned to spend that night at home. My host mom must have picked up on my mental decision because she mentioned Jurassic Park 3 was on television, so all of us headed into the living room to enjoy watching the dubbed version. (it was fun to watch, since I could compare easily the difference in Spanish-English!) As I was seated down, once again I became the temporary tattoo artist of before- even little Dario coming up and insisting with his hand for a tatoo himself- and I gave him a small dragon, Eloisa and Sergio both opting for some chinese dragons themselves.
My host mom then gave us some delicious ice cream and white chocolate for a late night dessert, and we all camped out, watching some good old Jurassic Park! (Any JP movie=Natalie relaxer) After the movie finished, I eagerly climbed into bed, and immediately fell asleep.
The next morning I woke up late to an empty household. My host mom told me that the family was going to spend the day at the beach, and James was off to Seville with his program. House to myself- nice! I got to relax, eat a nice breakfast, and do a bit of studying that morning. I later on showered, and went out to walk for a bit.. then realizing how very hot it was out. I tried to find an open internet cafè, but none were open till about 2 PM.
I headed home for lunch, and then proceeded to go over my travel plans for the day. I knew where the pick up place for the bus was, and where it was- it was just a matter of when I wanted to go. I thought it over, and decided I`d leave after lunch, wander around a bit, and soon get myself on the bus for Atarfe, the city hosting the bullfight, not 15 minutes away!
The local cyber cafè was indeed open when I ventured out, and for 45 minutes (60 cents! Good deal too!) I got to surf, check messages, and upload some pictures at my leisure. But the internet quickly got boring, as I was far too excited about the bullfight. So I paid my small fee, and decided to go and find the bus.
I planned to simply hang out at the bus station until 4:10 PM, but when I arrived at 3:30 PM, the 3:30 bus was still waiting at the stop. So I thought to myself.. why not? I paid 1.05 Euros, (cheaper than the intercity bus..hmmm!) and found myself a good seat near the exit. The bus rumbled out, and I was on my way to the bullring!
Or maybe not so...well, I guess I`ll just have to explain. The bus eventually did make it to Atarfe, the only way I realizing so by the city`s signs. However, the bus dropped off at the center of town, and I knew it was time to get off when the whole bus cleared... but when I got off, I had absolutely no idea where I was.
There were a bunch of apartments and a nearby restaurant, but no signs, no tourist office, nothing. It was dead quiet in the hot afternoon, and I had no map on me. I put on my determined face, as surely my luck would not fail me today, and made the executive decision to simply walk straight away from bus stop.
That actually turned out to be the wrong way, and I soon figured it out when I walked straight out of the city. I was looking for the highway though- I had been past Atarfe several times via bus, so I knew it was near the highway. But, this side of the city had no highway, and looking left and right yielded nothing.
My spirits began to sink, and I wondered that while I had 3 and a half hours left, that I might miss the bullfight- or worse, be permanently lost. I did have my phone with me, but everyone I knew was out of Granada for the day- so I had to figure my way back, one way or another.
I continued north for a ways, only running back into the city when a sign indicated the police station was in the center. I never did find the police station... but I did walk straight back to my bus stop. Frustrated, I simply continued past the bus station, walking the other way from where I had originally started. How hard was it to find a huge bullring!?!
My furious steps led me past a construction sight, and my anger soon disappated as I heard the hum of traffic... it must be the highway! I looked onto my right, and above me was indeed the highway! Hurrah! But the bullring.... I continued following the highway, and thankfully enough, just beyond the construction site, the large bullring loomed straight in front of me. At last, I had found my way- and I would still be seeing my fight!
There was a nearby carnival of sorts going on, so I walked through there briefly to check it out- it was mostly just a bunch of daytime discotecas, which were spraying mist onto partygoers in the hot, afternoon sun. I guess Spain is a party country, since it was only 4 in the afternoon as well!
I toured up and down the carnival, watching the partiers and the carnival get set up for what I guess what was a later event. I felt a bit out of place as I was by myself, so I decided to head over to the ring and wait out for the bullfight. From what I had seen of Atarfe, it really wasn`t much of a tourist destination, (not to mention it was unbearbly hot) so hanging out for 2 hours in front of the ring didn`t seem such a bad idea.
I walked around the large ring to get a feel of where I was supposed to enter in, and only stopped briefly at a small souvenir stand that had opened right in front of the ticket entrance. Nothing screamed buy me now, so window browsing was all I accomplished there. My steps then lead me to my specific entrance, which on a cardboard was scribbled Tenido 3-4.
So I waited there for a goodwhile, briefly sitting down despite the foul smell of the outside of the bullring, (Im guessing homeless/partygoers hang out here when it`s empty) A couple of passerby passed me by, a few ring workers glancing me at the curious sight of a lone female, but I was relatively unbothered the whole while. I tried to give a quick call home, but no answer- I guessed my family was out on the morning. So I played some cell phone games, watched the blue sky, and generally mentally wished that it was 7:30 PM.
Not 45 minutes later, the spectators soon began to show. Huddles of families, lone older men, and groups of all sorts made their way around the ring, and I rose to stand to my feet, not wanting to be seen sitting. But I wasn`t alone for long- when three, older Spanish men. (I`m guessing late 60s- all but 1 had white hair) paced up to me. One of them enquired if this was where Tenindo 3 was meeting, and I replied back that I thought it was. The speaker then asked me another question, and based on my reply, immediately asked where I was from. Accent strikes again!
I informed back that I was from the United States, a little wary since I was indeed a female alone. But the three men looked at each other, then back to me, and immediately began talking to me all about bullfighting! The general consensus was they were impressed I was from the United States, a female, and that I did like bullfighting. I told them it was my first time to a fight, and they all came to life at that, all three of them butting in to tell me about the different stages about the fight, how the bulls would charge in, how the procession would go. I simply smiled and nodded at their enthusiasm, as they were all eager to relate their experience with me!
After chatting with my new buddies for a while, they glance at their watches, and one of the mentioned wanting to get some ice cold water. They looked to me eagerly, insisting I`d come with them, but with a smile and a gracious thank you, I declined the offer, still a bit unsure if that was a smart idea to do so. The leader of the group then asked if I wanted them to get me a coke, and I laughed, again insisting on that I was fine. They finally waved me a farewell, and I watched them walk off to the nearby restaurant. Within minutes, my phone rang- my family was back from going to Church! I eagerly told them my weekend adventures and about my new Spanish buddies, and to assure them that I was definately fine and ok in Atarfe!
The time breezed by as I was on the phone, and soon the doors were opening at 6:30 PM. Now, large masses of people were all over the place, swarming into nearby doors, but the place I was at wasn`t opening. Was I at the right one, I wondered? My question was answered when my old Spanish buddies appeared in the throng, quickly ushering me over. No, they said, this wasn`t it- it was ahead! I nodded my reply, still on the phone, and the three guided me over to the entrance.
The ticketer took our tickets, ripping off the sides, and we were soon in the ring. My parents got to hear my gasps of amazement over the phone, as I was definately impressed with the inside of the ring:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5158.jpg
My Spanish buddies then got ahold of a helpful usher, and they quickly informed him that I was a young American attending a bullfight, and would need help finding my seat. The guide looked at me, mentioned `guapa`(translate to pretty, but dependant on the situation- I`m assuming he was also impressed I was a foreign female attending a bullfight) I thanked my buddies for their help, and they cheerfully waved me off, and the usher lead me up to my seat.
I was at the higher seating, but it gave me a great view of the ring below. (the photo above shows the distance!) I was pretty happy with my location, smack dab in the center part of the ring. I had to bid my family goodbye as the hour hit, and I waited patiently for the bullfight to start, 30 minutes still ahead of me.
But a quick tap on my shoulder distracted me, and it was my Spanish buddy from before! He gave me a free fan that they apparently were handing out to me, and I thanked him once again. He joined me for a few minutes until the group whose seat were there came, and he waved to me once again, going back down to join his group. I felt like they were my Spanish grandfathers or something, since they were definately making sure I was situated and all!
The wait wasn`t long before the music began to play from the nearby band, and the procession soon came... two men on horseback, followed by the matadors, their assistants, and a whole association of the bullfight`s stars of the night:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5166.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5167.jpg
My heart began to thump in my chest with excitement at the grand display, and the crowd was the same- the cheering didn`t stop, and neither did the music- the procession toured around the ring, stopping by the President`s box briefly, but then breaking up and going their respective ways. The matador`s assistants began to stretch their legs and generally prepare themselves for the fight:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5172.jpg
A man then came out onto the middle of the ring, holding up a large, black sign with several numbers written on it. I assume that was the the listing of the bull, or numbering of some sort, but I had no idea.. because as soon as he departed from the ring, the band began to pick up. My gaze searched around, and finally targeted on the right spot: a couple of men were lifting open a large gate. The large door opened, and the men began rapping at the sides- and within moments, they had stopped rapping, and a huge bull sprinted out of the box.
I all but gasped at the charge of the bull, amazed on how fast that animal had torn out of there. The bull looked left and right at the flapping of the pink flags, targeted one, and went straight for him:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5173.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5174.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5175.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5179.jpg
The assistant distracted the bull, but then hastily ran behind a barricade along the ring, where the bull became confused. But another flapping flag had the bull`s full attention, and the bull charged left and right, all over the ring, trying to gore everything that moved. The bull was indeed a brave animal, and his movements strong- I would definately not want to be on the wrong side of the huge horns!
The music of the band soon began to change in tune, and two men on horseback, the picadors, rode out of another entrance. The bull was still chasing every which way, and the assistants lead the bull up to one of the men on horseback. The picador had his spear in hand, and when the bull got close, he slammed the spear down into the bull`s back, close to the neck. The bull immediately went after the horse, but the horses are covered in protective armor, so all he succeeded in doing was knocking the poor horse around:
The bull was enraged, and after a couple of flag flaps, the assistants got the bull`s attention away from the picador. The two picadors then trotted off through the exit, and then the fight commenced once more.
Then cheering ensured- the matador himself was out! He was dressed finely, and in his hands, two long barbs were held tightly. They were wrapped in a colorful way, but I could see the small spear-like tips at the end of them. These are used to spear the back of the bull, but to do so, the matador has to run up, and thrust them into the back of the bull. Needless to say this makes the bull very angry, so the matador had to tear away like a bat out of hell from the charge of the bull!
He did this several times, each time having to narrowly escape the bull, as the assistants would continously wave their flags to snap his attention away. Finally, the bull had enough spears in him, and the assistants stood down: as the matador made his way back into the ring, with a large, red cape, and sword in hand.
What happened next could only be described as art. I can readily understand how organizations that fight and protest the act of bullfighting have their reasons, but strangely, despite the blood and stabbing, I couldn`t help but be enraptured instead of sickened. Man versus bull, in one of the more primal conquests from days of old.. or maybe I just have an inner Roman inside me. Whatever it was, I cheered OLÈ along with crowd, excited at this matador`s mastery over the charging bull:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5185.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5184.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5186.jpg
The first fight was only about 20 minutes long, and from there, the matador switched his swords (the assistants distracting the bull) and went to make his killing blow. This is the more dangerous part of the fight, in which the matador must throw himsef in front of the horns to drive the sword in between the bull`s shoulderblades. The first try the matador`s blade didn`t go all the way through, and fell off within moments. But the second strike rang true- within moments, the bull stumbled, and he fell:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5188.jpg
The crowd then came to life, waving small white clothes to petition the President of the Bullfight to bequeath the brave matador with the prize of an ear. The president put down one white cloth, and the crowd roared with delight: and the matador was awarded with one cut ear, a trophy for his performance.
There were 5 more fights after that, 3 matadors, 2 bulls per matador. I could write a book on each individual fight, but neither you nor I have the time to write/read so! But every fight had it`s own special moments, every bull brave as can be. There was blood, there was cheering, there was simply an old traditional of fighting against a beast, clad only in a sword and cape.
However, my perspective on the fight changed when my buddies came up to get me after the first fight. They eagerly waited for my response, which I replied in all truthfullness that I had absolutely loved it. That made them even happier, and they all but dragged me down to their row- and they were much closer to the ring! So most of the bullfight I spent relatively close down the ring, and they would cut in with commentary on performances, giving me a good feel for what a true aficionado is like at a bullfight. I definately felt like Hemingway hanging out with these guys!
The crowd also was drinking from wineskins, which I did remember from The Sun also Rises as well (I highly reccomend reading this book-it gives a good look into the bullfighting culture; not much has changed since the early 1900s!) My buddies also had one, and offered me some to drink, but I replied a grateful no. They nodded and protruded a cup for me, (the tradition is to drink some and pass around) and poured me a cup. Not what I had meant but... I simply shrugged. When in Spain...! I sipped the amount they had given me, it a slightly strong alcholic beverage. Good thing I only requested a little bit, but I did partake in the bullfight`s tradition!
Here are some photos/videos from all different parts of the fight...there are a TON of more photos on photobucket, as well as several videos online as well: as you can tell, I was very impressed throughout the whole fight:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5193.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5195.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5196.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5202.jpg
(one part in the fight where El Fandi, my personal favorite matador from Granada, took a guy`s hat from the crowd and placed it on the bull`s head. Mind you, he had to do this while running away from the bull, and Fandi really had no fear- he got the highest honors during the fight, and showed off mad skills beyond belief. Here`s a picture of the bull near the said hat:)
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5217.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5220.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5222.jpg
VIDEOS! (9 in total on photobucket!)
http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/?action=view¤t=IMGP5176.flv
http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/?action=view¤t=IMGP5197.flv
(the guy on the right is one of my Spanish buddies!)
http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/?action=view¤t=IMGP5208.flv
(much more on my photobucket.. I can`t stress this enough! :) )
The bullfight lasted for about a little under 3 hours, and soon 10 Pm was upon me- I had a bus to catch. I watched El Fandi drive the killing blow, and admist the cheering and roaring of the crowd, I ducked over to bid my new found friends a farewell. I thanked them kindly for their assistance and companionship, to which they simply waved off, saying it was their pleasure. I gave them a cheerful goodbye, and made my way out of the stadium. I walked passed the carnival, into town, finally locating my bus station to get home. 11:20 PM I was back home, and after a magical night, was more than ready to hit the sheets.
Today was a bit different from school as usual, as we watched a movie in class today! It was a Spanish movie, Al lado de la cama? (I think that was the name..) it was pretty interesting, but definately not a movie for a family! Moreso us 16+ year olds... after the movie, we were released for the day, so that came at a welcome surprise!
Lunch was delicious fish, which I surely will miss when I leave here! (I consume fish here on a regular basis.. I guess US fish just tastes terrible, since it`s delicious here!) The fish always comes with bones and scales, so I always have to eat a bit carefully. But taaaasty!
My afternoon plans? Unfortunatly, it looks to be studying.. bleah! However, I`ve decided while I`ll have to study, I won`t be locked in some room. Nope, I`m going to either head to the park near the Alhambra, or a park close to my home. (still under question) so that while I may be bored to death, I`ll at least be in a scenic area! Hurrah! Tommorrow will be my final day here in Spain, and of course, that probably entitles some organized wandering, and some farewells to my favorite Spanish city.
This also will be my last blog written from Spain. This comes a bit on a sad note, since I`ve personally enjoyed writing all of my going-ons and adventures, and it will be a definate absence in my routine. But this isn`t the last update, friends! I will write one final chapter in my story about my final day, the trip home, and of course being at home with my family. So as always...
Until next time!
Friday, July 25, 2008
A Week`s recap, and plans for the final weekend in Spain!
The week started off with Monday, which was back to class in the morning, learning about future tenses and giving advice. I`m a little overwhelmed by all the new stuff that`s been crammed into this last month, (the previous class felt like a review) but a bit excited since now I have at my fingertips other ways of communicating! Example: talking about stuff I hope and desire, the future, the past, the past of the past... somehow it doesn`t make sense in English, but it does in Spanish!
After class I went home and ate lunch, and tried to take a siesta.. that ended up being very successful, as I didn`t wake up until about 8 PM. Aich! But I really needed the sleep, as I was still exhausted from my weekend excursion. My biggest adventure was going for an hour`s worth of a walk, trying to get in my daily Granada walkabout.
Tuesday I was determined to start and finish my blog, which that afternoon took me well over 2 hours to accomplish that goal, on top of uploading my photos and writing. A quick message from Brendan, (he had called the day before, but I had been sleeping!) and we both agreed to meet up at the CLM to go to the Albacìn! This week`s kind of been a `What do I have to do once more before I leave Granada?` week! I really wanted to explore into the Albacìn again, and Brendan was more than happy to join!
We set off the usual route, climbing up the large incline of stairs, and briefly viewing the Alhambra from the Mirador de San Nicolas. But we weren`t there for long, as I wanted to go into the heart of the Albacìn itself. So we continued on, my memory getting a bit fuzzier- as while I had the Mirador de San Nicolas route burned into my mind, going further not so much- I had only done it twice before, in my first month.
But my memories weren`t too saturated- we found the main plaza with ease. But Brendan`s luck wasn`t with our find, as one of his sandals decided to break off right smack dab in the middle of the plaza! Yikes! Needless to say I was worried that we`d have to cancel and go back to Granada in case of glass, but Brendan took it like a trooper and continued on, barefoot.
We wandered up and down several roads, as I really wanted to take Brendan for caracoles, and I had wanted to find that snail restaurant again- the first month when me, Scott, and Scott`s two Hong Kong buddies attempted it, we came up empty handed. I was kinda feeling the same as we went down several roads, none of them yielding results. However, we did get to see some fantastic views of Granada, and attempt to figure out where all the famous buildings were in the large complex of buildings.
I was beginning to lose faith that the magical caracol casa even existed, and mentally decided to try one more road, and then just give up my neverending quest to find this place. I was glad I did decide to try that one last road, because it ended up somehow being the winner! (note: I`ll probably never find it going that way again, but hey!) The restaurant wasn`t open yet, but I was just happy we had managed to stumble onto the place.
The two of us found a bench nearby to wait for the restaurant to open, and I stared off into the fountain, as Brendan stared at his feet. My eyes looked over, and I began to laugh. Why so? Well, there`s a certain type of people on the street of Spain, I suppose you could call them `grunge punks.`They like to have their hair up and done like something out of Jamaica, and they never wear shoes. Groups of them with dogs mill around all over Granada, sometimes selling their handmade crafts, more times simply playing on their old guitars. For whatever reason, they`re here in Granada, and the Spaniards call them Pies Negras, or blackfeet for not wearing shoes!
So as you can see here, Brendan has assimilated into the grunge punk culture.. notice the cute red handbag... that`s mine!
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5127.jpg
We sat in front of the fountain, chatting about how our weekend trips had gone, as random passerby walked through the plaza- one guy even dumping his dog into the fountain for a quick cool off. (It was pretty funny) It was nice to relax and here about how Evelyn`s and Brendan`s Morocco trip had went- and from what I heard, it sounded like everyone had a blast!
The hour passed by quickly, and by 8:30 PM, the caracoles restaurant was open. I sent a quick text message home to my host mom, saying I`d be late, and we both sat down, and ordered our drinks.
Moments later the drinks arrived, and not even 5 minutes later, the famous tapas of caracoles. I instructed Brendan on how to eat them, and I immediately began chowing down, him following in suit:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5129.jpg
Yum!
Surprsingly, unlike the first time I ate snails, I had no reservations about eating them this time around! Maybe it`s because I`ve eaten squid here, or maybe it`s because I`ve eaten snail before...... whatever it is, I simply ate at them like any snack- and it didn`t hurt that they were really tasty too! Brendan had no reservations either, being hungry as well, and the two of us managed to down the whole bowl:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5130.jpg
No more snail left for leftovers!
The snails were very tasty, and the whole thing cost under 3.50 Euros, so we definately got a bargain for our buck! (or for our Euro... )
The sun was beginning to set on Granada, and my dinner was still at hand, so the two of us managed to take the slightly easier path down into Granada (Brendan`s feet thanked us for that!) We both parted ways, me memorizing the path we took so I could find the snail restaurant again, and I headed home to my host family. Needless to say, I had lots of fun telling them my new favorite snack was snails, and while they were a bit creeped out, (not everyone likes them) they seemed pretty happy I`ve developed a like for them!
Wednesday was back to class, (always back to class!) for the morning, and the afternoon was divided between working on my Toledo entry, and printing up the bus schedule for next week. Why so? Well there is an Airport bus here for about 3 Euros, as compared to taking a taxi for 20 Euros. I`d like to save the nice bit of 17 Euros, so I`ve figured out the bus system to the airport via the ever helpful google search!
After doing my regular bit of blogging, I headed out of the CLM to go find something to accomplish. I hadn`t planned much for that day beyond getting a bit of blogwork done, so I was stumped on what I should do.. but nothing beats empty planning like shopping, so I decided to go visit some stores rather close to the Alhambra, as I hadn`t visited them since I went there all those weeks ago!
I stopped into about every single store there, checking out to make sure there wasn`t anything I couldn`t live without. The only item that ended up being brought home was a 15 Euro summer dress from a Moroccan store. I`d been seeing this little summer-esque dresses being hung up in every single Moroccan store, and I`ve always wanted one, but never had enough time or thought to pursue one. The store clerk let me try it on in the back, (which was pretty much a broom closet, but better than nothing) and finding it fit me, I made my purchase! So, now I have a dress! For... some.. reason!
Thursday was class in the morning, where the subject delved from learning new tenses, to starting into review. My exam is on Tuesday, but I`m only one of 3 taking it that day- most people opted for Monday or Friday. Why Tuesday? Well, I`m just one who`d like that extra day to study, so the opportunity for it wasn`t going to pass me by! Review handouts and 4 hours later, I was done with class, and heading home for lunch.
I finally completed the Toledo entry with relish, (I always feel a surge of happiness finishing them! Accomplishment!) and then planned my afternoon trip- I was going to visit the Sacromonte. A nice walk to the edge of the Sacromonte sounded like a fabulous idea, and despite the heat, I headed out around 6 PM to the white, cave houses beyond.
The Sacromonte was quiet as usual as I entered, only maybe 1-3 persons making their way down the road. I supposed there wasn`t too much going on on such a hot afternoon, but it was all the same nice to get out of the hustle and bustle of the city. I fit into the silence myself walking down the winding roads, only making noise when two backpackers approached me! One of them walked up to me, asking me in Spanish if there was anything of interest in the Sacromonte. I did a double take, realizing once again someone had mistaken me for a local! The funny thing is, this does happen on a regular basis- but this was the first time a tourist did!
I explained back in Spanish what I knew of the Sacromonte, unsure if these two backpackers knew English, or were from some other European country, or maybe even the States! Wherever they were from, I never found out- all they wanted to know was what to do. I mentioned there were the cave houses and a musuem to my knowledge, but beyond that was the city center and the Albacìn at the end of the road. They thanked me for my help and continued on, and I watched them go- I suppose even now they must think me a local, but I guess it`s unusual for a foreigner to walk around by themselves without a map!
I continued down the road of the Sacromonte, looking up at the cave houses, and watching as the scenery became more and more rural. I walked for about 45 minutes, only a few cars passing by me, speeding along the way. The few locals I saw either ignored my presence or cast a curious glance on where I was headed to, in which I didn`t even know- I just wanted to see if the Sacromonte had an end. But I`m not sure where the end is, or maybe I did eventually cross it- but I did stop when I realized it was all farm fields and roosters running around, and I didn`t want to end up in the middle of nowhere!
So from there I headed back into the city, it being around 8:45 PM when I finally made it back home. Dinner was out and ready as soon as I came home, and me, the kids, and James all chatted respectively about what we had done the day. A piece of paper floated around the table from earlier, as a joke pencil had been laid out for trial by unaware persons, but all the same, a real pencil had made it on the table. As my family well knows, I particularly enjoy drawing, (especially dragons) and when the paper inched over to me, I drew a little caricature, and set it aside.
Sergio, the oldest boy in the family, glanced over at the paper, and picked it up, studying it. He then stared at me in amazement, realizing that I had indeed drawn that. He then showed it to his mom, and the two of them went off on how cool and artistic it was- I simply shrugged at their impression, as I don`t think I`m that good. But I guess they did, because Sergio then asked me if I would draw a dragon on his hand!
Sure.. why not! I replied to the inquiry, and he hustled off to go find some markers.
I then proceeded to `tattoo` Sergio`s hand, as my host mom Eloisa watched me in interest, remarking so often at my talent. I felt a bit proud of my work, since I usually only draw for myself, and it`s always nice when someone compliments! A large red dragon soon graced Sergio`s hand, and the little doodles I had done had made their way onto the family`s fridge.
I thanked Eloisa as usual for the delicious dinner, and then retired to my room to continue my drawing. I was elated that they seemed to really like my art, so I felt the need and want to draw them a larger, fuller scale picture. As I can practically draw dragons in my sleep, it didn`t take me too long to finish the picture.
I went hunting to give Eloisa the better picture, and I peeked into the living room, where daughter Eloisa, Sergio, and James were all watching tv. They happily invited me to join them, and when Sergio showed off his hand`s work, Eloisa Jr. (as Stephanie named her to differentiate between the two) pleaded if I wouldn`t draw her one as well. I smiled and informed her I would need markers, and she ran off to go find the pack of them.
My host mom soon entered, and I gave her the drawing I had sketched up- she was very impressed and happy with it, and the family all took turns looking at it, all remarking of how cool and artistic it looked. All I could do was sit there and feel complimented- I`m no Picasso, but I definately felt like him! My host mom went off with the picture, and Eloisa Jr. returned with the markers. The kids wanted their hands, legs, and even arms and back done- I made them promise to scrub it off afterwards.
Dragons, butterfiles, vampires, pegasus, birds.. you name it, I drew it! They were very happy with their new temporary tattoos, and soon the clock chimed 11, and I bid them all farewell for the night. Natalie, the Spanish tattoo artist! (my parents cringe at this)
Today was getup as usual, as I briefly saw my host dad before he took off for work. I ate in the dark of the kitchen, (I like eating in the dim morning light for some odd reason- maybe it`s because I like to pretend I`m still asleep?) when my gaze drew over to the fridge-
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5134.jpg
Yep, that`s my picture up there!
I grinned at the picture, happy my host family liked it that much! So from there I set off to school for another review day, a trip home for fish and rice, and a hour and half siesta!
So now I`m here at the CLM, finishing up my blog for this week`s adventures! Tonight I will be getting together with Brendan and hopefully Evelyn, (she`s been a bit under the weather this week!) to go do some more organized wandering, for sure! Tommorrow, Saturday, all of us Abroadco kids, Inma and Jaime, are all going to the beach! Hurrah beach! I`ll get to try out my summer dress with my bathing suit, and hopefully catch a couple of a rays too!
But the one thing that`s really got my hopping excited about this week is Sunday... BULLFIGHT!!!!!!!!!! Finally, after weeks and days and 2 months of waiting in anticipation, I finally we go see the bullfight I`ve been so eagerly wanting to see. It`s 7:30 PM Sunday night in Atarfe, (15 minutes away from Granada) and needless to say, I am psyched to go! I`ve seen several bullfights on television but.. seeing it face to face! Hurrah!!! Matador versus bull in a fight in the ring... that rings of Spanish lore!
On the other hand, this will also be my final weekend in Granada, so I`ll defiantely have to make the best of it, despite the final days ticking down. Wednesday is my go day, so techincally Tuesday is my last day here... Friday, Saturday, Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday... 4 days left to go! I`m a bit sad that it`s finally at the end, but I`m excited too- I`ll get to go home and relate all my adventures to all my family and friends, and soon head back to school!
But it`s not over yet, and the day is still young! I`ll return back next week to recount this weekend`s adventures!
So... until next time!
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
The Aranjuez/Toledo Adventure! (Part 2)
But I`m trailing off... okay! Back to what I was here to do in the first place!
It was a dark and... dark Sunday morning. Well, I guess it would be, being 6 AM in the morning! I had set my alarm clock for 6:15, so I was pleasantly surprised I woke up before it. The wonders of going to bed early.. amazing!
I still hadn`t packed for the morning, so I hustled to through the few things I had brought with me. Book, clothes, feather.. Hm. I seperated my bag, putting all my heavier items seperate from my new prize, as I wanted it to come back to Granada in one piece. I did a West family stalking of the room, to make absolute sure I hadn`t left anything behind, and headed out at about 6:15 AM.
Surprisingly, someone was just up in time for me- so checking out only consisted of a second worth of forking over my TV remote and key. The reception desk was a glass top, and beneath it listed a bunch of bus times, so I checked for Aranjuez. Hm. Looks like there was one at 7 AM, and 8 AM. Okay. 45 minutes. I can do that!
So I took the 5 second walk over to the bus stop, which was right next door to my hostel. Huh. There`s some other people out here too- I wonder why? I simply mingled into the small group of waiting passengers, as I soon saw why they were all here- 6:20 AM, a Continental bus rolled in, with a large sign in the front. Madrid. Hm. Not my bus.
The waiting passerby all got in, and the bus driver gave me a look over, as a silent question of, you coming? No, I want to go to Toledo, not Madrid! I simply looked off to indicate I was waiting for something else, and soon enough, the large bus pulled out and away at exactly 6:30 AM. I guess the earlier the bus, the more punctual it becomes!
5 minutes passed by, and besides the occasional screech of a nearby bat, it was quite boring all alone at the bus stop. What to occupy myself until 7.. well... hm.. oh! I was leaning against the Continental bus office, (don`t be fooled, this isn`t the airplane company!) and the window was plastered with bus times. Well, always good to double check on Aranjuez-Toledo times!
Hmm.. Aranjuez-Toledo, 7 AM, 8 AM and 6:45 PM... weekdays only.
.....AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.
My face fell at the news, as I whirled around, mentally wishing the bus would magically return. Weekdays only! I should have gotten on the 6:30 AM bus to Madrid! Augh!
Okay, when does the next bus come? 7:15 AM to Madrid. Okay. That`s not so bad.
So it was a bit of a wait, but it looked to be a connection from Madrid to Toledo, instead of straight from Aranjuez. It was a bit of a bummer in that it took longer than I would have expected, however, all the same it wasn`t too long! 7:15 AM I was on the bus heading back to Madrid. Now that I was familiar with the bus station in Madrid, I was heading out at 8:30 AM towards the city of Toledo.
I studied the Let`s Go! map in my handbook, but it was slightly confusing in that fact it`s small. Small enough to fit in the book, but too small for me to understand which way was which. Okay. I`ll just have to wing it when I get there.... right? I closed my book, opting to stare out of the window instead.
Not 30 minutes out of Madrid, the scenery began to change. Green turned into brown, and the trees became scarcer and scarcer. A sign declared we were crossing into La Mancha, and I couldn`t help but wonder if this really was La Mancha, or I mysteriously crossed into some time vortex that lead me straight back to Laramie, Wyoming. The similarity in scenery was astonishing!
The ride took about 70 minutes, complete with stops for locals going off to work. It was around 10 AM ish when our bus pulled into the small Toledo station, and I was eager to get going and explore Toledo- I had heard so many interesting things about the place, so I was really looking forward to finally being able to visit! I whipped open my Let`s Go book, determined not to spend my morning wandering around in confusion.
Okay, it says to follow right along the highway. Along the highway....but which one?
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5031.jpg
Wait.. I need to take this literally... right! I need to go right!
I paced over to the highway`s intersection, and followed the right hand side. A family with cameras was headed the same direction, which made me feel a bit better- if they were going this way, surely I was going the right way, too? But it wasn`t the easiest way there- about 5 minutes up it all was an uphil climb for me, and I lurked in the shade, trying not to burn all my sweat making my way up. I followed along the castle-like way of Toledo, my excitement growing.. this really was a Medieval town!
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5032.jpg
But the climb was soon over, and I came up to a large plaza and roundabout.. here`! Here`s the entrance to the city!:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5033.jpg
And luck would have it, that straight across the way was a Tourist information booth. Yay!!! I jogged across the busy street, making sure not to become a hood ornament, and made my way inside the nice, air-conditioned building. The friendly staff, as always, gave me a handy free map- and asked me if I wanted a route to follow. But of course! I informed them I was only there for a day, so they highlighted a route I absolutely had to go on while in Toledo. A plan and a map.. hurrah!
I made a quick stop at a nearby restaurant, getting a plate of churros for a Euro, as was a bit hungry for breakfast, and the price had me estatic as well. My hunger sated, I got up and walked back to the plaza, map hand.. to enter in the castled city.As I walked through the huge doors, I couldn`t help but notice a large statue on my right hand side, of one of Spain`s more famous leaders:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5037.jpg
(notice the castle structure behind him! Welcome to the Spanish Round Table!)
This city felt and looked old, and it wasn`t going without saying that it was. As soon as I passed through the large doorway, I ran into yet another older structure, this one being a Church:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5039.jpg
The road went three different ways, so my handy map assisted me in which way I ought to take. Straight past the church... I walked a good ways down the main road, wanting to start at the very bottom of the city, and work my way up. I passed alongside opening tourists shops, locals sweeping out dust to tidy the store for the hordes of tourists still yet to come. However, I didn`t go too far past the souvenir stores when I noticed something they all had in common..
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5048.jpg
Swords! Lots and lots of.. swords! Every single store I passed had elegant swords on display, shields, plates of armor... and some postcards. I mean, I had heard Toledo was world-famous for their swords (check them out in the Lord of the Rings- swords from Toledo) but I didn`t realize that they were that sword crazy!
I immediately stopped in several stores just to look at all the swords, and I kept mentally berating my self that I didn`t come all the way to Toledo just to shop! It took some effort, but I finally came to terms with myself that I would certaintly not miss out on looking at all the beautiful blades before I left. Anyone who likes swords, hide your wallet at home.. or you`ll end up buying a dozen!
I continued on past the rows of shops, the road bending and becoming an uphill climb. I watched cars and buses pass on by, and stared ahead at the continously medieval-looking scenery of Toledo, and the surrounding La Mancha:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5040.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5041.jpg
Tromping up, then down the road, I passed several groups of familes, obviously tourists, so I knew that I had definately chosen the right way. I continously checked my map to double check I was on the right way, (since getting lost my 2nd day in Granada, I`ve developed a slight paranoia of getting lost) I couldn`t help but put the map down as the road`s narrowing drew my gaze upwards:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5042.jpg
Some kind of Church-like structure.. what could it be? I had to investigate further.
A walk through a large plaza, and a couple of turns later, I came up to what looked like the beginnings of a concert. Hundreds and hundred of people were gathered in front of a large plaza, as different tour guides with sides yammered on in different languages to the hustle and bustle below them. Yikes! I heard Toledo was a popular destination, but this was just pushing it! I cautiously made my through the horde of people, to see what all the fuss was about:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5044.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5045.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5046.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5047.jpg
The fuss wasn`t without it`s due, I mean this Cathedral was incredible! Hundreds of carvings, looming gothic-like structure... wow. I remembered reading on my map that the Cathedral didn`t open for tourism until about 2 PM, so I mentally reminded myself not to miss the Cathedral on the way out!
I left the sea of tourists, looking up at a sign that pointed down a winding road to more historical sites. Okay- There was a monastery I had wanted to start off at, and the map indicated it was the very bottom of the route highlighted for me. So off I continued, in the shady, narrow pathway through Toledo:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5049.jpg
The road winded around for a good ways, and I wondered if I was ever going to get to that main road again. But all roads lead to the main road, and soon I was back in the sunshine- admist tourist groups again. (When traveling, you always know you`re at the right spot if there are other tourists!) I passed by an impressive looking building, not the monastery, but I still had to take a picture of it:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5051.jpg
(I think it was a school of some kind.. art school?)
I checked my map, and looked on ahead- yes! The monastery! Another helpful sign indicated to me that the monastery was straight up ahead, and yet another one simply pointed to the left hand side. A large set of wooden doors beckoned me inside the dim room, and I entered.. my eyes drawing to the grinning skeleton hanging above the doorway:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5052.jpg
This monastery had been circled, so I knew it was going to be good- the tourist information booth never lies. And it was all that and more- A combination of a monastery, a gorgeous chapel, and two levels of sculptures, paintings, gargoyles, and spiraling gothic scenery:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5054.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5055.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5056.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5067.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5064.jpg
I wondered who had given money to make this beautiful monastery, and my suspicions were confirmed when I glanced up at the ceiling: F and D, Ferdinand and Isabella. Apparently, they had funded this monastery and adjoining Church to become their final resting place, however, they were so proud of their Granada conquest they decided to be interred there instead.
My path had my climb up, down, and all over the monastery in awe. The one thing I`ve been so impressed with here is the old buildings- it`s amazing the way they are built, with so much attention to detail and sculpture. Call me cycnical, but I really don`t think they could do it today with that amount of effort!
I soon departed the beautiful monastery, going back out into the steadily climbing heat. I wanted to see the very front of the Church/Monastery, so I headed around to the back to snap shots, and pause in front of a nice overview of the Toledo countryside:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5070.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5069.jpg
Across the street, which I am not sure to what importance was, was a little statue imposed in front of a castle-like building. Why the picture? It`s because I really wanted to capture Toledo- and prove that yes, it really, really is a mostly medieval town!
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5072.jpg
Castles everywhere!
After viewing the monastery, I checked my map again, finding my exact spot. Right where I had wanted to start at.. excellent! I had made a slight detour at the Cathedral, so on the brightside, I wasn`t going to see anything I had already seen before- and not 5 minutes away from the monastery, the next stops were to some old synagouges left over from before the Inquistion. Toledo used to have a big Jewish population and Islamic as well: it`s old history was famous for a period of harmony between the three big religions of Spain. However, time had a way of destroying that, but perhaps not what was left over.
I took a couple pictures of the synagouges I stopped in front of, but like Aranjuez, the ones I visited I wasn`t allowed to take pictures inside:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5073.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5075.jpg
Stars of David, carvings much like the Moorish ones I`ve seen here in my time in Spain were all over the place- the seconds synagouge I visited also had history on Jewish influence from the town all the way up to the Royal Court. Jews played a large role in shaping the future of Toledo with their excellent services such as advisors, treasures, craftsman, and more! It was nice to see an exhibition on Judaism, in a mostly Catholic-dominated history. I spent a good amount of time there, simply walking through the exhibits, and staring at all the carvings made by Jewish crafters long ago, try to reflect on what religious harmony they must have had to accomplish such a beautiful building.
After my synagouge stops, I definately took a couple of odd turns off my map, eventaully making a giant circle, but I did eventually figure out my route- stopping at one store briefly to try a bit of Marzipan, a doughy bread with a sweet filling famous in Toledo.. delllllllicious!!! I also passed by the Museum of the famous painter, El Greco along the way- however, it was closed for renovations, so I unfortunatly only got to take a shot of the old door:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5076.jpg
But luckily enough, a nearby church had a painting of El Greco, and a 2 Euro fee got me inside to see the painting. Once again, the no picture police were at it with entering tourists, so I put my camera back in my pocket, opting to stare at the painting. My camera definately got a break on my Toledo trip, that was for sure!
(however, a google hunt found me on Wikipedia, and I did find a picture of the painting. My question is, how did this photo get online, if you aren`t allowed to take pictures?)
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/ff/El_Greco_-_The_Burial_of_the_Count_of_Orgaz.JPG
The painting was of Count Orgaz, who had spent his life generously giving donations to this Church. One the day he died, he requested to be put in the most simple grave in the church, and the Church claims a miracle happened at his burial- two saints apparently appeared alongside his body, and laid him to rest. I`m not sure if that exactly happened that way, but there is definately a grave for him there, (a 2001 expedition located his grave in the Church) so he definately did exist! The Church comissioned the famous painter, El Greco, to paint the miracle- and so now it`s forever on display, depicting Orgaz`s rise to heaven.
After visiting the Church`s fancy painting, I definately did some unorganized wandering, making that giant circle what I had mentioned before. However, I did get another nice picture of Toledo, as I felt empty at not being able to take pictures in the previous areas:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5077.jpg
But I quickly checked my map again, and after finding a larger map-sign, I finally figured the right way to go- okay, I´m lying. I really just got frustrated with the map`s confusing road ways, so I simply began to follow road sides, and began to make cuts through roads. Whether this was the most sensible idea ever, luck was on my side. Earlier at the tourist office, I had seen a sign advertising for an exhibition that I really, really wanted to see- The exhibition on the Torture Devices used by the Inquisition.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5079.jpg
Sure, it sounds scary, right? Well, it was- I have an large imagination, and the devices were all authentic, and the atmosphere was downright grim in there. It was fascinating as each individual device had both a Spanish and English translation of it`s name and purpose.. and photos were allowed, so I practically took pictures of every single exhibit in there. There are more on my photobucket, but these were some of my favorites.. or perhaps, the scarier ones:
(NOTE: Items of Torture here! Read/view at your own risk!)
The Skullcrusher:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5081.jpg
Iron Maiden:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5082.jpg
(I poked my finger on one of the spikes... it was pretty painful!)
Water Torture:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5086.jpg
(a favorite of the Inquistion, where they would shove a cloth down a throat and pour water, inducing the sensation of drowing.. this could last for hours, irritating the throat and making it bleed)
The Stretcher:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5093.jpg
(They`d lay you out on this table, tying your arms to the top, and well.. I think you know what happens after that)
Spiked Chair:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5095.jpg
(This just goes without saying..and poke my finger on this one too. Ouch ouch ouch!)
Gotta have a Guillotine:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5105.jpg
The amount of imagination the Spanish Inquisition had when it came to tortute was frightening- they really, really did think of every which way to torment information out of a person. I particularly like this exhibit as it did give a darker side to Spain`s past, and gave visitors a reminder that the Spanish Crown`s word was law, and in those days, it was pretty much Catholic or bust.. or maybe in this context, death!However, while I was doing my own browsing around, I was approached by an older gentleman in his late 50s, with a small group of 20 something year olds about him. (3 of them) He noticed my interest in the exhibit, and how my eyes would trail over to the English translation.. and he suddenly began talking to me- in perfect English!
I knew he was Spanish by his accent, but his English was dead on. I wondered if he was their tour guide or something, as he was talking to them in English too! I guess he must have picked up on my interest, because he then went on to give me an almost `mini` tour of the place in English- while his group meandered around. He was particularly friendly and kind, like a teacher of sorts, pointing out things of interest to me and explaining each individual one. I kept wondering, is he a tour guide? Does he work here? I wasn`t sure, but he would contiously pop over to talk to me about an exhibit, seeming to enjoy practicting his English and broadening my horizons!
He would continously break off to rejoin his group of students?, going back to talking to them in English, and I made my way up to the second level of the exhibit, seeing more different sights. I soon noticed they must have made their way out before me, because as I left, I saw that I was one of the few left in there. I spent a good deal of time in that museum, just because it was so fascinating- and I got a mini tour to boot!
After the grim view into the Inquisition, I definately had to go see something a bit happier... oh! Here`s a sign- Museo of the Visigoths! That sounded interesting! I twined through the twisting, narrow roads as the sign pointed me ahead... and then it ended. Huh. No museum. Hm.
I paced up and down, all around that road- no museum. Was the sign lying to me? I wasn`t sure if it was closed, the sign was wrong, or maybe the museum didn`t exist anymore- either way, I did not find that museum. However, I did find a lovely, former Jesuit Church, which boasted a gorgeous view of Toledo. Remembering the Torre from Càdiz, I hurried inside:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5108.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5109.jpg
(my one picture of the inside.. after that, an attendant came up and I got the `sin flash`bit. My camera doesn`t seem to have that option, or I just cant find it- either way, my only picture of the inside of the church!)
The inside of the large church was magnificient, with large, religious paintings and iconography all around. Jesus, Mary, Angels, Mary.. and more Mary. It seems to me in the Catholic Churches of yesteryear, they seem to pay a lot of attention to the Virgen Mary, as she shows up quite a bit. It`s always cool to compare different potrayals of her, from Church to Church, each one has got their own interpretation!
However, I really really wanted to get up and see Toledo.. so as I quickly hurried through the Church, I made my way up a very, very long flight of stairs:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5110.jpg
Burn those legs!
Walking up and out.. out to the beautiful, afternoon overlooking the town of brown.. Toledo.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5113.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5114.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5115.jpg
I looked from up on high at the city below, and the surrounding area of La Mancha. It was indeed beautiful and as picturesque as one could ask for.. and even a couple of times I scanned out onto La Mancha, trying to look for Don Quixote and Sancho Paza riding off into the distance.
After the aerial visit, and a more in depth look at the Jesuit Church, I checked onto my watch. Oh! It was heading on 3 PM. I should go check out the Cathedral! I also looked onto my map on the way out, and the Cathedral was pretty much the last stop I hadn`t made on my highlighted path. Well, I reasoned, I could go to the Cathedral, maybe do a bit of souvenir shop cruising, and head back to Madrid. Granada was still 5 hours away, so no matter what time I left, it was sure to be late!
I headed over to the Cathedral, only stopping in a few shops that caught my eye, as the temptation of forking over Euros for a gorgeous sword plagued my mind- but reasoning played in as well- I was never going to get a broadsword home. I simply plotted to become rich later in life and come back to Toledo to buy myself a fine sword- since now I know where to get them!
My way lead me up to the Cathedral, and a quick inquiry with a guard had me on the other side, paying my 7 Euro fee to get in. But who would have guessed, but right behind me was my friendly Spanish buddy from before, his little group in tow! He greeted me in gusto, seeming happy to see me, and his small group cast glances at me, probably wondering who the heck I was. I cheerfully greeted back, as he had been very welcoming to me earlier! I turned to pay my entrance fee and walked in, the group of them only aways behind.
(The front of the door, and the only photos I was allowed to take. Once again.. no photos allowed!)
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5117.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5118.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5119.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5120.jpg
I entered in, and the place was beyond amazing. I truly wish of all the places I couldn`t take a photo of, I could have taken a photo of this grand Cathedral- because it was really beyond grand. Every single inch of the place was carved, paintings that reached nigh-high to heaven, and enormous paned ceilings, golden statues, marble slabs.. words just don`t do this place justice. All I know is, I`ll someday return to see this beautiful place. It was beyond description. It was just a very, very beautiful Church.
I wandered in awe down the cool floor, the group not a step behind me. The gentleman from earlier approached me, and we chatted for a bit, me all smiles and him seeming extremely happy at my interest. And with that, he firmly insisted I join their group tour... and I blinked, being invited to join them. Of course, I said yes- he was extermely friendly and seemed to know everything about this history of this grand place!
He introduced me to his small clan as his American friend- and I gave him my name, and I was Natalie the American. He was actually the father of one of the two 20 year old boys- the girl present was his son`s girlfriend from Brazil, and the other boy was his son`s friend. Apparently his son had been studying in London to practice Law like his father, and to improve on his English. I was guessing the other two were of the same mind, because the entire tour was given in English!
Along the many things we saw, I asked my new friend about himself, thought I never got his name! He was from Madrid taking his son and company on vacation, and he himself had studied abroad in Kentucky, when he had been dating an American girl. Wow! I informed him his English was excellent, and he laughed, saying it was a bit rusty and he was happy to practice with me- honestly, I could barely tell. He was really, really good. He asked if I was going to be a Spanish teacher, and I told him I wanted to travel, and have a language at my aid. He seemed impressed with that!
Our small band traversed the whole church, seeing things such as paintings, sculptures, old graves for Knights, pews, Corpus Christi statues Queen Isabella`s crown on display, even a gift of a sword from Franco, and a sculpture from Mussolini. Hmmm......
Needless to say, the Church was a definate highlight! We spent a good time exploring the old place, and his son`s buddy soon was getting tired of all the walking! Our group then ventured outside, and I checking my watch- it was heading on 4. Hm. I still needed to stop and look at some sword shops to cure my curiosity, so I bid my new friends a hearty farewell, they in turn. One of the nicest bunch of Spaniards I had met in my stay here in Spain!
From there, I explored a couple of sword and souvenir shops, looking at everything from Lord of the Rings replicas to Carlos IV replicas. It was very neat to see all of the swords, shields, maces, crossbows, armor.... well, you get the idea. It seemed to be that store-browsing was almost part of the Toledo experience, just to see all the steelware!
My store-hopping was favorable to my direction, and I soon was at the castle wall from that early morning at around 4:45. I knew the buses left about every half an hour, so I hustled over to catch the 5 PM bus. I had accomplished a lot in Toledo, and it was nice to give my legs a chance to relax, and to enjoy the breeze of the bus`s air-conditioner.
Around 6 PM I was in Madird, and I went to try and get on the 6:30 bus for Granada- and it was sold out. However, the 7:30 PM bus still had tickets, so I bought myself one, and found myself a nice seat to wait for my bus time. I gave my folks back home a call while I waited, eager to share my experience of the last couple of days. My mom asked me what I was looking forward to most when I came home, and I promptly replied: More time to talk! International calls are a bit expensive, so the usual marker is about 1 hour- so I am definately looking forward on my return to be able to talk endlessly! (to the horror of my brother)
The hour passed by quickly as I talked on the phone, and I only paused in my conversation to find my bus, and climb aboard on my seat. I took a quick picture of the Madrid bus station, because my parents had wondered what it looked like.. so here it is!
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5121.jpg
busy busy busy....
The bus was packed tight, and only a bit of a issue with a woman and her seat kept us 5 minutes from being exactly 7:30 departure time, but we were soon heading off. I talked a bit more of my excellent adventures with mom and pop, soon bidding them farewell to watch a rather badly dubbed Chuck Norris movie! Yeah Chuck Norris!
We made a brief 30 minute stop at a rest station, (where I had a 5 minute heart attack- somehow I thought the bus broke down, and we were stranded in the middle of nowhere. Wrong!) I bought myself a nice waterbottle, as I was a bit dehydrated from Toledo. But after the small break, we were back and heading down to Granada- rumbling in at about 12:30 AM.
I made the long trip to the other side of town, always keeping on the main, lighted roads which were quiet, only the occasional groups of Spaniards or cars making any sort of noise. I got home about an hour later, making a quick call home to assure my family I had made it back in one piece. And with that, I carefully put down all my things, and climbed into bed- tired, but happy after an adventerous weekend.
(Tommorrow`s entry will be like last weeks, in which it will recap all the things I`ve done this week, and my weekend plans! Stay tuned!)
Until next time!
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
The Aranjuez/Toledo Adventure! (Part 1!)
Once again, I`ll have to divide this up into two posts, simply because they`re a bit long to write all in one!
So let`s see... where was I last?
So it was Friday night, and the clock was ticking as I packed away all of my clothing, alarm clock, and food I`d need to enjoy my weekend without lacking anything. This time I definately packed some shampoo, as last weekend I had gone out and bought some cheap version, which burned my eyes quite a bit. This was my second trip by myself, and this time I felt more experienced, as I had successfully completed it last week with no worries!
My bus to Madrid was at 1:30 AM, so I opted not to sleep- 12 AM really wasn`t long to wait for, and the time flew by just as quickly. I left the quiet of my house to the lit streets of Granada, where the night was just beginning to pick up. Backpack`d up, I made my way to the bus station in about 50 minutes or so. (Bus station is on the other side of town)
I glanced up at the slow changing times, and ticket in hand, waited for my bus to arrive. As usual, the bus didn`t show up at exactly 1:25, but rather 1:35- better, I suppose, for last minute runners. There wasn`t a big group going to Madrid, but that just indicates most people don`t want to travel at 1:30 AM in the morning! But the boarding was quick, and I took my seat near the front, and immediately dozed for the next 5 hours. Only for a moment did I open my eyes, and that was when the driver made a brief stop at a gas station. I simply ignored it, and scrunched back up against the window.
Soon enough, light begin to fill into the bus, and I squinted my eyes to see a city barely 5 minutes away from us. Madrid! I checked my watch- 6:30 AM, that would be just the time as well! I pondered how I would get to Aranjuez that morning as the bus rumbled into the city- would I get one immediately, or would I have to wait an hour? Let`s Go! promised there was a bus that ran to Aranjuez every 30 minutes, but I wouldn`t believe it until I saw it.
The bus ran down a lowered ramp into an underground tunnel, and then the darkness opened into a huge bus station. It was rows and rows and rows of buses, with different levels, numbers, etc. It made the big bus station of Granada look like a small parking lot! But Madrid, like Malaga, is a big transportation hub, so all in all I wasn`t too surprised- mostly impressed!
6:46 AM and I was out on the pavement, hastily trying to figure out where to go from there. Oh! There`s a sign! Translate.. okay, so that`s the main center for buses. Ok. I`ll go there. Up the escalaters..
The scene was busy with human traffic, but I managed to find my way to towards the long rows of ticket booth. Where was the times? Behind me, as I turned to look up at the huge screen. Bus stations here seem like airports, with departure times and all. Just a lot less hassle with security!
Aranjuez, Aran... yes! 7:15 AM! That`s the one I want! I headed down to find the bus, and a quick enquiry later, I was back in the station buying my bus ticket. Each bus route has a different form of payment- some you just pay on the bus, others you have to go to the teller. This bus was a teller-bus, and I bit my lip as 7:15 AM began to crawl closer and closer- would I miss this bus, and wait for another 30 minutes?
Nope! I shucked over 4.67 Euros, and ticket in hand, ran down the stairs. I probably had about another 5 minutes until go time, but my near-miss experience with the Morocco bus has made me a bit paranoid about departure times. The driver ripped my ticket, and I picked fancy spot near the window to stare out and peek a bit into Madrid. And then we were off!
We were actually on the outskirts of the city, so I really didn`t see the big skyscrapers and other city-like things I was expecting in Madrid- however, I did get to see a lot of the surrounding area, which reflected a bit of the city, yet kept it`s own sense of identity. Aranjuez was only about 50 minutes away, but it was about a 70 minute ride there- our bus made about a million stops before we got there, dropping off locals on the way to work. I`m not sure how tourists get to Aranjuez, (maybe train?) because I was definately the only non-local on that bus!
But finally around 8:20 we pulled in Aranjuez, and my first impression was of a sleepy, smaller town- the smallest city I`d visited my entire trip. I was actually a bit relieved- I was a bit tired from Madrid, and this town looked promising to deliver a day trip, and not one that would have me on the edge trying to figure out the layout.
The bus pulled in front of a building, (no bus station here- ha!) and let off the few of us that hadn`t gotten off earlier. I turned and watched the bus go, as the rest scattered off into the town. Okay... now what? I didn`t have any sort of map, as Let`s Go! didn`t have one in the book, so I figured if I walked long enough, I was doomed to walk into something.
I walked to where we had turned from a large roundabout, and tried to get my bearings. Okay, I`m guessing I`m somewhere in this small town`s center- that`s a good sign. I turned to my left, and spied a most magnificient looking building- how had I missed that when we pulled in!?
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4887.jpg
I knew that must be some important structure, but it couldn`t be the famous palace here-a palace would certaintly be a bit bigger than that! This came from what I knew prior to visiting Aranjuez. I knew this town was a vacation palace for the Spanish Royals up to the early 1900s, and famous for its luxurious gardens. But my gaze cast ahead of me, as an important building peeked out behind a large expansion of green. Well, I think I`ve found part of the gardens:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4888.jpg
A large information tourist sign was right next to the garden, and I eagerly began reading- okay. That building I saw was apparently a church, and ahead of me was the Island gardens. Behind them was the Palace, and near the church was a tourist booth- but it wasn`t open till 10. Okay. I have some time to kill before I can get a map.
I walked to inspect the back of the sign, and it posted opening times of different attractions around Aranjuez. The palace didn`t open till 9, in fact- most everything didn`t open till 9. It was around 8. Hm. But wait- the gardens open at 8 AM. Excellent. I`ll go visit the Island garden!
The gate was open as I walked into the gardens, the early morning sun not too strong on my skin. There was only a guard walking around, and he gave me merely a glance, and continued opening different gates for entry. I hardly knew where to begin, as this garden was HUGE! To the right was a large expansion, and in front of me was a rushing river, and to the left was what looked like a garden forest.
I toured every single part of the huge garden, (and I mean, miles of garden here.) It was gorgeous to say the least, and it truly was a small piece of Heaven for royalty- now in 2008, a magnificient excursion for the not-so-royal me. I took so many pictures of this beautiful place, so I`ll let my camera tell the story in the way words can`t:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4890.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4892.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4893.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4901.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4913.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4906.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4904.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4909.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4921.jpg
(a heck a lot more on my photobucket, since I was so impressed with these gardens- the Aranjuez pictures are a bit out of order, but all the same, an excellent impression of what it was like there!)
After strolling through the epic journey through the jardin de Isla, I wanted to check out the palace, and get a good scope of it. The time was near 9:30 AM, so I figured I could go get a looksee around the palace, and then go and wait by the Tourist office to get myself a fancy map.
I walked down past the garden, more guards present as I drew closer to the palace. Bored to death, they began watching my every move as I scuffled across the dusty plaza- I wish I could have done something more entertaining, but it was early and I was still groggy from my bus ride!
I made a loop around the front of the palace, taking a couple of pictures and promising myself that I would visit after I had gotten my map and hostel taken care of:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4925.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4926.jpg
Nice!
The road next to the palace looked promising, so I opted to follow away from the palace. It lead me straight back to the Church of before, which was excellent in that I knew the tourst office was somewhere nearby. I took more pictures of this building and the nearby fountain- and reflecting through my pictures, this building was practically my favorite one...it seems to show up every so often in my album:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4931.jpg
I wandered around the plaza, trying to find the mysterious tourist office, as it wasn`t labeled with a huge sign or anything. I walked up and around the church, crossing onto a road that immediately had my camera targeted on its name:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4928.jpg
The Tourist office was nearby.. and a helpful street sign guided me onto the adjoining road, where I walked along the side, the long slant of buildings full of windows and.. there! There! An information sign was placed on the side of the door, which was why I had trouble finding it.
So it was only about a 20 minute wait for the tourist office to open, and I busied myself with eating a small breakfast of half a sandwhich my host mom had packed for me. However, the place I was sitting was crawling with ants, so I waged a mini-war trying to keep them off me and away from my food. Eventually the ants got too annoying, so I lurked into a shady spot to stand, and munch on the food.
10 AM rolled around, and then the information office finally opened. Hurrah! I quickly went inside, and asked the receptionist for a map. She gave me a handy map, and then went about marking different places I should definately make sure to visit in my stay. I thanked her for her excellent help, and wandered out of the nice, air conditioned building.
I wanted to go straight to the palace, but first I had to go about making sure I had a room for the night. I wasn`t too worried-Aranjuez seemed small enough that I wouldn`t have to go hostel-hunting like in Càdiz. I remembered from earlier that morning a hostel that was right next door to the bus stop, hostel Infantas. Hm. That seems like a good idea- right next to the bus station, which would be convinient in the morning. Good idea!
So I began to head back in that general direction, though I cut through a lovely garden that was constructed by Queen Isabella the 2nd. It had a statue in the middle she had commissioned herself, of herself as a young child: (NOTE: photobucket has randomly decided to stop working right now, so I can`t post the link to the picture.. I`ll challenge you to try and find it! Check it out on my photobucket!)
It was a small garden, but all the same, quite pretty!
Maybe 5 minutes later had me heading inside the hostel`s reception, and a quick question for the receptionist: A single room for the night, and how much?. The rate was 24 euros without a shower, 34 with. Well.. I personally didn`t care about a shower being in the room, ( there was one down the hall) so I had one without. (saving moneeeeey!)
Surprisingly, for a single room, I got two bed one.. I guess the single ones were booked, so they gave me it instead:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4934.jpg
Pretty nice, eh? (notice the map and Let`s go! book.. my constant companions..!)
I put all my things down, and laid out my clothes to lighten the load in my backpack. I kept all the things I`d need for the day, such as my waterbottle and wallet, but everything else got to camp out in the room.
From there I went to pay my rate, and turn in my key while I was out. In hostels, (what I learned in Càdiz) is unlike hotels, you don`t get a card key for starters. You get a real key, and you give it to the receptionist to hold on to while you`re out. I guess it`s to prevent keys getting lost or stolen.. but I don`t know. I just know you have to do it!
Stepping out into the street, I couldn`t help but notice the once sleepy town was now alive with tourists. When I had arrived that morning, it had been dead quiet- now people with maps, sunscreen, and sunglasses were all over the place. Hm. I better head over to the palace, lest I have to wait in a line!
I walked over to the palace from hostel, a mere 10 minute trip down the road. Music from a poor musician, (lots in Spain- people that beg by playing an instrument to garner attention.) hummed in the background, as tourists yammered on in their respective languages. I kept on walking, finally arriving to the area where I had seen the guards milling around earlier. The door was now open, and time for me to enter into the Royal Palace-how exciting!I was drilled through security checkpoint, my bag getting scanned to make sure I didn`t have anything that would be dangerous I suppose. Guards were everywhere here- so I knew this had to be good!
I took a couple of pictures of the first room I was allowed into, that had different pictures and history of the palace:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4936.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4937.jpg
The path then lead me through the Museum`s shop, which I mentally remembered to return to later. But a large door opened the way outside, and I curiously followed, and stepped out to the courtyard..out in front of the Palace itself:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4940.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4939.jpg
Wowzers!
Unfortunatly, this was all I could take of pictures of the palace. As soon as I walked inside that building, a large sign said NO PHOTOS. Augh! I was a bit sad not to be able to take pictures, and ironically, that would be a problem that would plague me the rest of the weekend, simply because most of the places I visited were so old!
Needless to say, the interior of the palace was huge, but gorgeous. I mean.. it was a palace. Think something out of the 1700s- wigs, fancy dress, giant paintings, luxorious carpets, hand-carved everything.. I mean, that`s exactly what I thought of when I stepped into the place. The ceilings were always hand painted, the tables were huge and extravagant... the things of royals. Large sculptures of Greek gods and godesses, (that seemed to be the hippest thing back the day) curving clock, plush seats, large desks...I could go on and on about every individual detail. The rooms.. I mean the rooms! One room was even made entirely out of porcelain. Entirely! Hand carved figurenes of porcelain, the ceiling.. its almost unimaginable. I mean, could they do that today? I don`t think so- the amount of time, money, and effort they put in those days into prettying that house.. incredible to say the least.
http://www.patrimonionacional.es/aranj/aranjuez.htm
(Here`s their website, they have a few pictures of rooms up.. just to give you an idea how insane these rooms were!)
The palace wasn`t just a show and tell of pretty paintings and luxurious rooms- this was the Spring palace, where the Royals would also hold court. A lot of history took place here, as evident by the adjoining display in the palace. It detailed the lives of each individual royal who had made their home here, showing such items as paintings, toys, robes, painted fangs, and even some royal jewels were on display. And once again, before I could even enter the place, NO PHOTOS!
But as always, that just means you all will have to visit someday to see this place for yourselves.. and if you don`t mind, invite me with you!
I spent a good part of my time in the Palace and its adjouning, as I am a reader/browser (translation: I take forever) It was well into the afternoon when I finally left the place, and as I exited, I took one more photo from a distance of the beautiful palace:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4941.jpg
Where should I go from there, I wondered? I whipped out my map, (and my tasty sanwhich too) and began to eat my lunch, and try and figure it out. Well.. it was getting really, really hot. (I`m telling you, it was near boiling point that afternoon... yikes!) Shady anything sounded good. Hmm.. how about the Jardin de Principe? The map indicated it was a huge area to cover, so I ate my lunch to energize myself for the trip.. but ugh, the sun was really draining my energy.. time to find the shade!
I walked along the old road, la calle de la Reina (Queen`s way), soon looking through a gated area that was full of trees and shade. The entrance was soon ahead of me:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4943.jpg
I entered into the cool, wonderful shade of the trees.. and like before, the garden simply amazed me. Towering trees, beautiful fountains, and more green than you could shake a stick at.. I mean this garden was miles long. Miles! On the map, it practically took up half the town.. the size, the amount of time... just incredible.
This entry specifically is just one that has to be told in pictures....
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4944.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4956.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4955.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4954.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5002.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5005.jpg
(more on photobucket, but going through these pictures is slightly frustrating.. you just can`t capture how big this garden was!)
I spent a good deal of time wandering through the garden, enjoying the cool breeze that would occasionally graze my skin. Hm... I flipped open my map as I wandered down one of the many beaten down roads.. there was an exhibit on gondola-like ships used by the royals to cruise down the local rio (river).. I wanted to go see that, for sure! I followed a couple of signs that pointed me to the exhibit, always ducking into the shade. Okay I`ll make a right here... wait, what was that?
Something had darted across the road. A bird of some kind... but pigeons aren`t that big. What was it? I had to go find out... I lurked over to the bushes where I had seen it gone. Okay, here birdy.....birdy.. BIRD!
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4948.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4946.jpg
(more on photobucket.... I was really fascinated with this bird.)
It was a pheasant! (or a grouse... one of them) It wasn`t too sure of me as I approached, but it didn`t take off in terror- rather, it simply walked away from me, always keeping a steady eye in case I changed my mind. I think that hunting has been banned in this park for quite some time, since I knew the royal family enjoyed it... but that gave me ample opportunity to take lots and lots of pictures!
After hassling the bird for photos, I made my way over to the nearest building, which turned out to indeed be the exhibition I was looking for:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4951.jpg
But alas, as soon as I arrived and paid my entry fee, an evil sign declared.. no photos! Baugh! Sighing in disappointment, I slid my camera back into my pocket, walking into the small exhibit.. but by Jove, (I`m picking up an English accent here too... oh bother!) there were never a grander looking gondola in my sight before! Golden arches, hand carve caricatures of angels and other mythological creatures... it was the luxury pastime of the royals to go down the local river in style, and they really, really had some insane style!
I enjoyed peering into all the gondolas and looking at the divine decorations, and reading about all the different periods and people that had used them. Imagine going down the river in a boat colored and carved like gold... it`s really hard to picture it, but these legit boats erased all doubt in my mind!
Soon I had to leave the exhibit, and go back out into the heat of the day. Ugh. The heat was starting to get to me to the point I stopped sweating. Usually you associate sweat with heat, but by that point, my body had spent all of my water sweating earlier, so I was high and dry, but feeling a bit tired. I sucked down some water I had gotten from a fountain in my bottle, continuing to lurk into the shade. Ugh.. so hot!
I continued walking down the many roads through the garden, touring down in the most shady parts, looking upon fountains, and vegetation of every variety:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4978.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4958.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4955.jpg
After about 20 minutes strolling down a long road, a sign pointed me to something Chinese (can`t remember the exact name) that was nearby. Hm.. I want to go see what it is...
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4965.jpg
ooo.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4963.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4968.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4961.jpg
double oooooo.
A beautiful fountain, large chinese-like styled patios, and ducks, swans... it was something out of a fairy tale. Somewhere the royals could enjoy relaxing by the waterside, watching the waterfowl bask in the afternoon sun. I was very fascinated by this tranquil, French-esque pond so I spent a good time just watching the birds swim around, occasionally honking at each other in annoyance. Wow. If there`s such a thing as reincarnation, I sure hope I was priviledged to be a royal person of some sort.. amazing!
I eventually decided I couldn`t stay forever rooted in that one spot, and bid a silent farewell to the beautiful, tranquil pond. I didn`t walk five steps until...BIRDY! More Pheasants! A male and female were cruising around, and I must be some inner bird watcher, since I took so many dang pictures of them:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4969.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4971.jpg
(I`m really proud of this one picture.. somehow it just came out looking great:)
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4976.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4975.jpg
They, like the two before, weren`t afraid of me: but they did keep their distance, and finally warmed up to me to let me have some excellent shots of the couple. I love pheasants, they are so pretty! And pretty tasty too, or so I here. Hmm....
After hackling the pheasants, I lingered around some more through the gardens, only stopping briefly to sip more water and eat a snack. Ugh. Even in the shade it`s so hot.. but I must continue on!
I begin to hunt for an exit to the gardens, as the afternoon was quickly passing by, and I wanted to see a bit more of the city. But I was immediately distracted with a couple who was walking down the road, and the woman was holding a most gorgeous looking peacock feather. Peacock.. there must be peacocks here! I silently cheered at that.. time to go find peacocks!
Somehow, the task seemed hard, but under a half-an hour of doing some hunting around, I found the beautiful birds. A mother and her babies pecked around the trees, while two bachelors (one maybe the father?) of a beautiful coloration basking in the sun. They, like the pheasants, didn`t run in terror- however, they did keep their distance from me:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4991.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4975.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4981.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP4999.jpg
Me and another photographer stalked these birds, both of us conversing in bits of Spanish to point out where the birds were lurking around. They were so pretty.. and I really wanted a feather! I hunted around in the bush where I had seen them lying around, and my efforts didn`t go unrewarded: A beautiful peacock feather lied on the ground, and I picked it up, measuring its size.. perfect. It fit neatly in my backpack, and I now had my souvenir from the gardens. Hurrah!
I had been looking for the exit earlier, and after finding the peacocks, I felt accomplished in touring the gardens. I wanted to walk downtown next, look for the bullfight exhibit I had read about in Let`s Go!.... but a few steps out in the sun changed my mind. Oh was it hot. I all but collapsed down in the shade, trying to pant out my heat akin to an animal. I sipped my water, now warm from the sun, and realized that maybe trying to walk all the way in the sun to the bullring wasn`t going to happen at the moment. But I couldn`t just sit there.....
but I could take the tourist train?
I remembered earlier there had been a small tourist train, (which was really just a car painted like a train, with little seats being pulled behind it) right next to the palace, so that sounded like a fabulously good idea- even though riding on a `tacky tourist train` didn`t have such a good ring to it. I walked the long way back over to the palace, as the sun continued to make my steps longer and longer.. ugh.. so hot.
The train left every half an hour, (I think there`s two trains) so it was 10 minutes until the end of the hour. Just in time! I bought a ticket for the ride, 5 euros a piece, and sat on the side of the shaded Chiquitrain. Finally. Out of the heat, out of the sun! Well, mostly just out of the sun...
The train was packed with tourists, most of them Spanish as well. I sat next to an older pair of women, and in front of me was the other car, with a young family sunglasse`d up. It made me think of my family, and how when I was little, when my parents would take me and my brother on all sorts of vacations. Now I was doing on my own.. it`s a bit strange to consider that!
Our Chiquitren pulled out of the driveway of the palace soon enough, and for the first part, practically drove down the exact roads I had been on that morning! Cripes !On the other hand, it was nice to revisit all of these places, and surprisngly, the little train was permitted to go through the garden! We drove on the main roads, seeing all the fountains I had seen before, and the driver explaining (all the while in Spanish) that several of these trees were from different parts of the world- how neat!
I was still glad I had originally walked through it though- because even though I enjoyed the fast trip through the park, it still didn`t beat getting to stop and smell the flowers.. or chase the peacocks, however you look at it.
The train then pulled out of the gardens, and then took us down to the city- finally, that was what I had been waiting for! We passed down the main road, looking at some old buildings where servants, princes, and guests had made their stay:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5007.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5011.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5010.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5008.jpg
We then passed by the bullring as we made the turn to head back to the main part of the city, and I hastily remembered its location so that I could go visit it after the train tour. The town really wasn`t all that big, so I wasn`t worried about dying of the heat along the way.
The train dropped us off near the bridge into town, as right next to it was another tourist trap in the shape of a boat. I didn`t buy a boat pass, nor had any inclanation to- I wanted to see the bullfight exhibition I had read about! So I waved farewell to the Chiquitren, taking some quick pictures off it before it chugged off:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5014.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5013.jpg
But a sign at a nearby outdoor restaurant tempted me too much, and I simply had to sit down an order Frescas con Nata. (Strawberries and cream.) Aranjuez is famous for their strawberries and asparagus, and I definately had to give the strawberries a try.. next visit will be the asparagus:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5016.jpg
yuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuum.
So I had my Frescas con Nata, and succesfully completed another task I had wanted to accomplish in Aranjuez. Okay now, the bullring....!
I walked along the road we had passed on earlier, and it was a bit more ways than it had felt like on the bus, (or it was just that hot out.) But soon enough I found the large, Roman-esque building, and I made my way around the rim, trying to find the entrance... oh! Here we are!
I entered into the doorway, as a museum attendant came out. The museum was closing in 30 minutes, and from what I understood, they were beginning to close. Well drat. I guess I had just missed out. I shrugged my shoulders, indicating I would leave, but the attendant shook her head, and informed me that it would be okay if I wanted to linger in the museum- as long as afterwards, I`d leave and make sure to shut the door behind me. I beamed at her, excited to see this museum- next Sunday I will be attending a bullfight, so I wanted to really get behind the scenes:
And I really did!
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5018.jpg
Dios mio, let me not get gored by a bull today.. (a small church where matadors go to pray before bullfighting)
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5019.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5017.jpg
pen where they keep the bulls:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5020.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5021.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5022.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5024.jpg
(more on the p-bucket!)
I got to see where the bulls where kept, videos of bullfight, swords of matadors.. you name it, this museum was dedicated to it. Everything you could want to know about a matador.. it was literally incredible to study each individual display, like how they armored the horses of the picador, (The men who lance the back of the bull with a long, pointed pole.) to the elaborate dress to the matador, and the three stages of the fight. I had read about bullfighting in Hemingway`s the Sun Also Rises, so I felt a bit proud I knew about these stages. Bullfights are a bit gorey, and aren`t the picteresque ones painted in the imagination of Americans. (Example: Most Americans don`t know that they kill the bull after the fight- most people assume they let them go.) But to me, it seems like an art form, even if so many of my fellow foreigners don`t agree with me!
The tour of the museum had me pumped up about my soon to be seen bullfight, and I left in high spirits, albeit a bit tired from the day. A took a quick picture of the bullring before I left, so that I`ll still remember what it looks like:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5029.jpg
I cruised in a local store and craved into a dehydrating soda, which tasted delicious, even though it didn`t really quench my thirst. I was starting to feel tired, and the clock was rolling aruond 7:30 PM- I felt I had accomplished everything I had wanted to, and going to the hostel, showering, and sleeping sounded like a fabulous idea. I passed by a servant`s quarters, now a Town Hall, on the way back:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/natalia_en_espana/IMGP5030-1.jpg
Soon enough, I was back in the hostel, as the sun was only beginning to set. I turned on my television, finding a channel that I liked (it was live feed of a bullfight- hurrah!) and organized my things for Toledo. A shower later, I changed into my new clothes, and watched a bit of the corrida de toros. But I continuously yawned through it, so I shut off the tv, set my alarm, and climbed into bed- after having a picturesque day in a vacation fit for a Queen.
Or maybe, just fit for me.
(Part 1 ends here, and the next update shall be Part 2: The Toledo trip! Stay tuned!)
Until next time!